AFRAID OF THE DARK (an ode to the Pinot Noir)

I am not recognized as being a person who believes in those wines especially made, standardized in colour and concentration to appeal to a broad market – in fact, I cannot stand wines supposed to be adapted to the taste of today! And this applies to white wines as well as reds.

Lets take red wines: I don’t mind if I am described as being desperate in search of the ideal, a dream, perhaps , a need, certainly – and this need has a colour: it is red but not any shade of red, I mean shades of red such as scarlet, alizarin, aniline, poppy etc.

I am totally adverse to a red wine which is black in colour and even more so towards the pinot noir which has a black hue, like ink: my immediate reaction is to avoid that sort of wine.

This red colour which I have studied, admired, inhaled and almost touched has a name: PINOT NOIR.

This name signifies universal acclaim and demand and I believe it is unrivalled; one can always find a reason not to appreciate it when, for example, it may seem too pale or lacking in substance but it could only be an illusion.

There are everywhere some famous domains, kings in their region and who make their wine solely to satisfy the “modern world” (too dark in colour, overpowering in aroma and taste, sometimes sweet! – yes, sweet!).

My principle is to try and differentiate between what is acceptable and what should be rejected and whatever the case, never be influenced.

Gérard Margeon

Alain Ducasse entreprise

Executive wine director